Author Archives: Carel Neffenger

Los Alamos & Oppenheimer

In the Christopher Nolan movie, Oppenheimer, Los Alamos, New Mexico, and its surroundings were a significant part of the film. Using movie magic, most of the sets were studio-created outside of Santa Fe to give the feel of the vast, empty countryside.

However, several of the Los Alamos scenes used buidlings that are still standing, or have been recreated within the city. On our latest visit to Los Alamos in October 2021 to also visit the Trinity site, the Oppenheimer residence and Civilian Women’s Dormitory had just been acquired by the Manhattan Project National Historical Park and were in the process of preservation.

Oppenheimer House

During our visit in October 2021, the Oppenheimer residence on Bathtub Row had just been acquired by the National Park. The building has since been preserved and is open for display, similar to the Hans Bethe House.

Civilian Women’s Dormatory

Although not open to the public, this is one of the remaining dormitories still standing in Los Alamos. The Civilian Women’s Dormitory, or T-101 (Technical Area) housed non-military staff for the project. During our visit, the previous tenant had just vacated, and the process of turning over the building to the NPS was in process.

Fuller Lodge

Fuller Lodge was the dining hall for the old ranch school and served as a community center for Manhattan Project workers. The lodge is currently used as an event hall, art center, and more by the Los Alamos Community.

You’ll see this in the movie with basketball hoops on either end of the hall. A short walk from the lodge, be sure to grab a picture with Oppenheimer and Groves.

Lamy Train Station

Several scenes in the movie involve trains – riding them, talking on them, or just hearing them. An active Amtrak station for the Southwest Chief (Chicago to Los Angeles), Lamy is where all the Manhattan Project scientist and workers arrived on their way to Los Alamos. Operated by the Atchison, Topeka and Santa Fe Railway at the time, the arriving guests would then take a short line on the Santa Fe Southern into Santa Fe, now operated as an excursion ride by Sky Railway.

The charm of the building is palpable, and there is now a cafe and taproom to enjoy.

Main Gate Park

Just before you enter Los Alamos along the highway, you’ll find a reproduction of the Los Alamos Main Gate in a rest area. Now just a facade for the restrooms, it’s a faithful reproduction of the main gate to the original facilities.

Trinity

Open for visits in April and October each year, the Trinity Site is where the test occurred on July 16, 1945, at 5:29 a.m. The site is part of the active White Sands Missile Range. The Army expects a record number of visitors for the open house on October 21, 2023, because of the film, so be prepared (and be early!) if you plan to visit this year. The next date is April 6, 2024.

What else?

There is so much to see and do in the Los Alamos area, from the Los Alamos History Museum (the best place to start; including several blog/interview posts about filming the movie on their web site), Bandalier National Monument (where many of the scientists relaxed, picnicked, and hiked) as well as the Valles Caldera National Preserve.

Woodley Mansion

The Woodley Mansion north entrance
The north entrance to the Woodley Mansion.

On April 25, 1945, Henry Stimson, United States Secretary of War, briefed Harry Truman on S-1 (the Manhattan Project), following the death of President Roosevelt on April 12. Along with General Leslie “Dick” Groves, Stimson traced the history of the Manhattan Project, summarized its status, and detailed the timeline for testing and combat delivery. Truman was unaware of the project, as it was top secret, and Stimson spearheaded the project through Congress through misdirection.

Henry Stimson purchased the Woodley Mansion in 1929, after being appointed U.S. Secretary of State by President Herbert Hoover. The mansion was built in 1801 in the Federal style on a hilltop. Stimson owned the home from 1929-1950, but only lived there until 1946 during his appointment as Secretary of War from 1940-1945.

Looking north over the soccer fields at the rear of the mansion.

In Harper’s Magazine, 1947, Stimson wrote “The decision to use the atomic bomb” partly as a response to John Hersey’s article, “Hiroshima,” published in The New Yorker. Stimson’s article was the first official account of the reasonings behind the bombings.

Today, the Woodley Mansion is home to the Maret School since 1950. Around 650 students attend the top-tier private school. The house has been used for a learning center, a library, business offices, and admissions office. The current soccer pitch and playfield was once a croquet lawn and gardens.

The Apocalypse Factory

Steve Olson at the Graham Pierce County Library

Steve Olson presented a talk and question & answer session about his newest book, The Apocalypse Factory: Plutonium and the Making of the Atomic Age, at the Graham Pierce County Library on Saturday, February 11, 2023.

The Apocalypse Factory tells the story of plutonium from it’s discovery by Glenn Seaborg at the birth of nuclear fission, the technology of using and testing plutonium as a weapon, the development of Hanford and the reactor complexes, and the Cold War aftermath and reliance on the manufacturing of plutonium.

Much has been written about uranium, the Manhattan Project, and the development of the first atomic bomb used on the citizens of Hiroshima. Mr. Olson’s book looks at the second atomic bomb, using implosion and plutonium, which was used on the citizens of Nagasaki on August 9, 1945. More importantly, plutonium pits became the standard for the U.S. stockpile of nuclear and thermonuclear weapons, creating the Cold War and the arms race.

As Glenn Seaborg noted on his discovery of plutonium:

I was a 28-year old kid and didn’t stop to ruminate about it… I didn’t think, “My God, we’ve changed the history of the world.”

(as cited in Olson, 2020, The Apocalypse Factory, p. 31)

Steve Olson is the author of Eruption: The Untold Story of Mount St. Helens (winner of a Washington State Book Award), Mapping Human History: Discovering the Past Through Our Genes (a finalist for the National Book Award), and other books. He has written for the Atlantic, Science, Smithsonian, and more. He lives in Seattle, Washington.